Author Topic: Visionary OOB polish? (Read 2028 times)

dizzyfugu · « **on:** January 08, 2009, 07:15:20 PM »

Does anyone know what polish or procedure is used on VBP's high gloss OOB equipment - esp. the G-3 Gryphon? Backgriund is that I need th info for future surface refreshments, and also to explain a funny ball reaction I had in training with it yesterday.

I know from the website that it is 1.500 grit base, but what kind of polish is applied? Is it a compound, or a "true" polish like Lanemaster's stuff? From the feel and visual inspection, I'd guess it is the latter, but if someone knows more, I'd be happy about some info

Thanks a lot!
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VBPadvertising · « **Reply #16 on:** January 12, 2009, 11:26:24 AM »

Hey Dizzy,

I have made mention of it here before, but it's been a while. We basically have a homemade version of an industrial size Lustre King. It uses buffing wheels and polishing compounds.

Essentially, this polishing machine takes a ball that is at approximately 400 from our sanding machine, and buffs and polishes it until it is at a 1500 grit polish. Because our polish is actually a buffing compound, it removes all of the sandlines and slowly brings it all the way up to 1500 polish.

While it would be pretty tough to completely duplicate the process, scott is right in that most people have great success using either Storm's step 2 or Ebonites Factory Finish compound.

A couple things to keep in mind when using polishes on reactive equipment.......1) Avoid polishes that contain wax, unless you want the ball to go pretty straight. 2) Make sure to use even pressure, otherwise you will have an uneven polish. 3) Lastly, make sure that you don't polish for too long, this can end up causing excessive length and an over/under reaction.

Jason Wonders

getuaload · « **Reply #17 on:** January 12, 2009, 11:52:58 AM »

If you polish your stuff at home, try this.

1st hot water bath with mild detergent
2nd use your spinner sand to your liking
3rd apply your polish
4th hot water bath again. Your ball will be oil free,and the second bath will help clean out any built up polish or clogged pores

Your ball will be super tacky after the last step, In fact your reaction will be as close to like new as you can get.
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MC · « **Reply #18 on:** January 12, 2009, 11:58:52 AM »

good tip. I will have to try that.
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icewall · « **Reply #19 on:** January 12, 2009, 06:50:35 PM »

quote:
If you polish your stuff at home, try this.

1st hot water bath with mild detergent
2nd use your spinner sand to your liking
3rd apply your polish
4th hot water bath again. Your ball will be oil free,and the second bath will help clean out any built up polish or clogged pores

Your ball will be super tacky after the last step, In fact your reaction will be as close to like new as you can get.
--------------------
TO BE THE MAN, YOU HAVE TO BEAT THE MAN

i do a similar method... I sand the ball.

then apply clean n dull in about a 1/4 section of the ball working it for about 1 minute per 1/4 of the ball by hand

then go to the surface i want before polish cleaning the ball while still spinning by spraying with water and wiping with micro fiber towel

polish one half and clean again with water

polish the other half and clean with water.

same concept and works just as you describe it makes sure that before you polish the bits of ball surface you sanded are gone and you get a good clean ball.

this is why i recommend valentinos video. I use their polish as well as their method and for me it is perfect and gets me there everytime without the guessing... (just have to figure out the underlying grit which is usually 4000 grit abralon as of late)

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Edited on 1/12/2009 7:51 PM

dizzyfugu · « **Reply #20 on:** January 14, 2009, 03:14:27 AM »

quote:
Hey Dizzy,

I have made mention of it here before, but it's been a while. We basically have a homemade version of an industrial size Lustre King. It uses buffing wheels and polishing compounds.

Essentially, this polishing machine takes a ball that is at approximately 400 from our sanding machine, and buffs and polishes it until it is at a 1500 grit polish. Because our polish is actually a buffing compound, it removes all of the sandlines and slowly brings it all the way up to 1500 polish.

While it would be pretty tough to completely duplicate the process, scott is right in that most people have great success using either Storm's step 2 or Ebonites Factory Finish compound.

A couple things to keep in mind when using polishes on reactive equipment.......1) Avoid polishes that contain wax, unless you want the ball to go pretty straight. 2) Make sure to use even pressure, otherwise you will have an uneven polish. 3) Lastly, make sure that you don't polish for too long, this can end up causing excessive length and an over/under reaction.

Jason Wonders

Thanks a lot for the clarifictaion, Jason!

--------------------
DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany

Confused by bowling?
Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section

Author Topic: Visionary OOB polish? (Read 2028 times)

dizzyfugu

Visionary OOB polish?

VBPadvertising

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getuaload

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MC

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icewall

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dizzyfugu

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