http://www.visionarybowling.com/drillOGRE.htmlGeneral Drilling Instructions For Orange/Black OGRE solid
Purple/Black OGRE pearl
Step #1 - Flip Pin Location
More Length (good for dry heads)
Strongest Combination of Length / Hook
(Leverage - Pin 3 3/8 from Axis)
Earlier Roll (more of an smooth arc)
Decide what type of reaction you are looking for and place the 1/2" Flip Pin in the appropriate location. This is a big percentage of how the ball reacts.
Extra Length - place the pin closer to your fingers:
A - Lower towards center of grip for earlier grab - *If the pin is placed too low the ball may flare over the finger holes.*
B - Higher over the fingers adds length - * If placed to high for certain individuals the ball may skid to long.*
Leverage (3 3/8" from axis) - for best length / hook combination.
Heavy / Early Roll - place the pin closer to the axis. This makes the ball roll sooner and provides less flare and back end snap.
Step #2 - CG Location
More Length (good for dry heads)
Strongest Combination of Length / Hook
(Stacked leverage would be in this area)
Earlier Roll (possible hook-set reaction)
Once you have decided on the Flip Pin location then you can adjust the ball reaction further by changing CG location (center of gravity).
1:30 ( / ) - (Strong Arc) - place the CG near the midline.
12:00 ( | ) - (Stacked) - place directly below the flip pin. *May not be good for extreme wet/dry conditions depending on the player.*
10:30 ( \ ) - (Heavy Roll) - kick the CG to the right of the centerline. This makes the ball roll sooner. It will produce more heavy forward roll and a controlled back end. On some conditions the ball will hook and then set up. *will probably require weight hole to make the static weights legal.*
Step #3 - Balance Hole Location
The weight hole should be placed to obtain the desired static weights. Although many people believe static weights don't matter any more this is not true. The weights in a ball can have a big effect. The reason they aren't treated the same as with older, more conventional balls is because - as the balls flare, the weight locations relative to the axis and track migrate. What might start as top weight may become side weight depending on the person and layout, etc. The complexity of the flare and axis migration is too much to explain here but understand that two balls with identical layouts will have different reactions if their static weights are different. Weight holes placed off the axis can exaggerate the differential that causes the flare and may make the ball livelier. If you have certain weights in other balls that produce good reactions for you then you should try to match the layouts with what works for your game. What is great for one bowler may be terrible for another.
Step #4 - Surface Finish
The final step is to throw the ball and adjust the coverstock accordingly. The finish on the balls plays a major part in the reaction of the ball. The Orange/Black OGRE solid is factory finished to about 600 grit. The Purple/Black OGRE pearl is a 1500 grit polish. If the balls are not reacting the way you want it to try the following:
Skidding too long & not finishing enough - dull the surface with sandpaper or scotchbrite to the desired grit. Try it in small steps because it may not take much change to see a big difference - results in earlier grab and more overall hook (too dull may cause the ball to roll too soon and lose some of the back end reaction)
Hooking early & not enough snap - polish the ball to the desired finish using a polishing machine or polishing compound. Again, do it in moderate steps because it doesn't take much to see the difference. - results in more length and more snap (too high of gloss may cause the ball to go too long and not get into a roll soon enough)
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