BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Visionary => Topic started by: dizzyfugu on January 08, 2009, 07:15:20 PM
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Does anyone know what polish or procedure is used on VBP's high gloss OOB equipment - esp. the G-3 Gryphon? Backgriund is that I need th info for future surface refreshments, and also to explain a funny ball reaction I had in training with it yesterday.
I know from the website that it is 1.500 grit base, but what kind of polish is applied? Is it a compound, or a "true" polish like Lanemaster's stuff? From the feel and visual inspection, I'd guess it is the latter, but if someone knows more, I'd be happy about some info 
Thanks a lot!
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DizzyFugu (http://"http://www.putfile.com/dizzyfugu/") - Reporting from Germany
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I think it was Jason or maybe Stephen Hahn that said a close approximation would be using Storm Step #2 to get it to 1500 polished. The Storm Step products are abrasive compounds. Maybe they can confirm.
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Scott
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Jason said it was a solid compound in a surfacing machine. My favorites have been 320 w/ Ebo FF polish, 320 w/ Storm step 2, and Resurection w/ snake oil. Those 3 combos seem the most similar for me.
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Rusty,
are you saying 320 grit with polish on top?
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Visionary Test Staffer 08/09
www.visionarybowling.com
Looking for the following...
16# Visionary Frankie May Gryphon
16# Banger Hole Finder Pearl
16# InSite Revelation
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Yes, both are abrasive polishes.
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Interesting... thanks a lot for your input, guys, it is a great help

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DizzyFugu (http://"http://www.putfile.com/dizzyfugu/") - Reporting from Germany
Confused by bowling?
Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section (http://"http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=74110&ForumID=16&CategoryID=5")
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i am curious maybe jason or someone on visionary staff can answer i just bought a ogre ss on here it has a nice track on it i want to resurface it but want to know what grit to take it to when i come back up to get the original oob finish that is on the ball? please help
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Back to the left side and loving it time to get my share of the bounty here i come.
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quote:
Yes, both are abrasive polishes.
Sorry, I missed that... 
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Visionary Test Staffer 08/09
www.visionarybowling.com
Looking for the following...
16# Visionary Frankie May Gryphon
16# Banger Hole Finder Pearl
16# InSite Revelation
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Is 320 plus those polishes really close to 800-1500 grit polished? Is there a limit to what the highest grit you should use under these polishes?
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quote:
Yes, both are abrasive polishes.
Yeah, but sanding to 320 grit and using Ebonite's Factory Finish polish?
Unless they changed the formula a lot since the early 2000s (2002/3/4), when I used Ebo FF polish, I had to sand the ball no rougher than 800 grit to get a shine when using FF polish. It had little abrasive in it.
If you were using Brunswick's Rough Buff, then, yes, you could get it high enough in the grit range to put a polish on it. As I said, maybe they put a HUGE and ROUGH degree of abrasives in FF polish nowadays. Otherwise, you are not going to get it anywhere close to Visionary's "1500 grit polished" stock surface.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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I have a number of Visionary pieces that I have left OOB 1500 polished and I see no ridges and valleys that a 320 grit underneath would leave with a polish over. Hmmmmm?
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Scott
Edited on 1/11/2009 7:19 PM
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My G-3 has also no visible sanding tracks under the polish. From the material available here, I will try a 1.500 grit base and use Brunswick's High Gloss, which is AFAIK also a very fine abrasive polish/light compound, this should do the trick. I used this on other balls before (e. g. Trauma, Reaction Rip, Renegade), and from the info you provided it should come close to the OOB surface.
Thanks a lot, guys!
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DizzyFugu (http://"http://www.putfile.com/dizzyfugu/") - Reporting from Germany
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Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section (http://"http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=74110&ForumID=16&CategoryID=5")
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I dont know about the older power house stuff, I had some that was purple, then a newer bottle that was blue. It took some skin off my finger without me even noticing it, so its definately abrasive. Put it on a spinner with some water and good pressure, it'll get rid of the lines. The resurection w/ snake oil does leave slight lines, but the move is still similar.
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Serious question. If you are going to use an abrasive polish over say 320 maroon nylon scotch brite and take it up in a finish level to say 1500 then why do the 320 step at all?
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Scott
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Just to try it. I didnt want to start real high because I dont know what grit the FF actually leaves the ball at.This is what I dont get about the Ebo and Hammer balls that come 4000 plus FF, Im pretty sure if I tried that on my Bronze centaur, it would go straight. Also, the Storm step 2 is a little more runny, but still gets a similar result.
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Hey Dizzy,
I have made mention of it here before, but it's been a while. We basically have a homemade version of an industrial size Lustre King. It uses buffing wheels and polishing compounds.
Essentially, this polishing machine takes a ball that is at approximately 400 from our sanding machine, and buffs and polishes it until it is at a 1500 grit polish. Because our polish is actually a buffing compound, it removes all of the sandlines and slowly brings it all the way up to 1500 polish.
While it would be pretty tough to completely duplicate the process, scott is right in that most people have great success using either Storm's step 2 or Ebonites Factory Finish compound.
A couple things to keep in mind when using polishes on reactive equipment.......1) Avoid polishes that contain wax, unless you want the ball to go pretty straight. 2) Make sure to use even pressure, otherwise you will have an uneven polish. 3) Lastly, make sure that you don't polish for too long, this can end up causing excessive length and an over/under reaction.
Jason Wonders
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If you polish your stuff at home, try this.
1st hot water bath with mild detergent
2nd use your spinner sand to your liking
3rd apply your polish
4th hot water bath again. Your ball will be oil free,and the second bath will help clean out any built up polish or clogged pores
Your ball will be super tacky after the last step, In fact your reaction will be as close to like new as you can get.
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TO BE THE MAN, YOU HAVE TO BEAT THE MAN
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good tip. I will have to try that.
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"Don't Give Up... Don't Ever Give Up." -Jim Valvano
"Perfection is not attainable. But if we chase perfection, we can catch excellence." -Vince Lombardi
VISIONARY TEST STAFF 07/08
Tag Team Coaching success story 
www.visionarybowling.com
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quote:
If you polish your stuff at home, try this.
1st hot water bath with mild detergent
2nd use your spinner sand to your liking
3rd apply your polish
4th hot water bath again. Your ball will be oil free,and the second bath will help clean out any built up polish or clogged pores
Your ball will be super tacky after the last step, In fact your reaction will be as close to like new as you can get.
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TO BE THE MAN, YOU HAVE TO BEAT THE MAN
i do a similar method... I sand the ball.
then apply clean n dull in about a 1/4 section of the ball working it for about 1 minute per 1/4 of the ball by hand
then go to the surface i want before polish cleaning the ball while still spinning by spraying with water and wiping with micro fiber towel
polish one half and clean again with water
polish the other half and clean with water.
same concept and works just as you describe it makes sure that before you polish the bits of ball surface you sanded are gone and you get a good clean ball.
this is why i recommend valentinos video. I use their polish as well as their method and for me it is perfect and gets me there everytime without the guessing... (just have to figure out the underlying grit which is usually 4000 grit abralon as of late)
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Visionary Test Staff 08/09
all visionary this year
blurple
ogre ss
glad.
glad. pearl
Edited on 1/12/2009 7:51 PM
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quote:
Hey Dizzy,
I have made mention of it here before, but it's been a while. We basically have a homemade version of an industrial size Lustre King. It uses buffing wheels and polishing compounds.
Essentially, this polishing machine takes a ball that is at approximately 400 from our sanding machine, and buffs and polishes it until it is at a 1500 grit polish. Because our polish is actually a buffing compound, it removes all of the sandlines and slowly brings it all the way up to 1500 polish.
While it would be pretty tough to completely duplicate the process, scott is right in that most people have great success using either Storm's step 2 or Ebonites Factory Finish compound.
A couple things to keep in mind when using polishes on reactive equipment.......1) Avoid polishes that contain wax, unless you want the ball to go pretty straight. 2) Make sure to use even pressure, otherwise you will have an uneven polish. 3) Lastly, make sure that you don't polish for too long, this can end up causing excessive length and an over/under reaction.
Jason Wonders
Thanks a lot for the clarifictaion, Jason! 
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DizzyFugu (http://"http://www.putfile.com/dizzyfugu/") - Reporting from Germany
Confused by bowling?
Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section (http://"http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=74110&ForumID=16&CategoryID=5")